Once again we find ourselves with holidays stretching out before us and with the opportunity to dedicate some time to writing and to bringing everything up to date again.
It all starts with the loss of two toenails, a lot of screaming and shouting and then having to write down everything that was said.
Toledo has the sort of summer weather that gives me some sympathy for the plight of roasted chickens, that sort of heat that wraps itself around you like a snake, constricting everything and leaving you no space whatsoever to breathe. We had been in the house for far too long. Raquel was getting grumpy, Jacob was whimpering in what Nana would have called a ‘tizzy’ and Sonia and myself were half collapsed on the sofa, looking at each other trying to get up the energy to think when the phone rang. There was a flurry of movement as everyone capable of walking (Jacob’s running skills are still lacking somewhat) rushed to get to the phone. Raquel was nearest as she was watching one of her Mickey Mouse episodes “On the computer”.
In her best Spanish she said, “Digame” and then went silent, and smiled a large grin.
“Si, estan aqui.” Another pregnant pause and then her little hand very nearly pistol whipped her mother, fortunately only colliding slightly with the end of Sonia’s nose. It was Gonzalo, a very dear friend of ours to invite us out for some cold beer on one of the many terraces on his estate. Now, armed with something to do, we sprung into action. Children were scrubbed, fed, washed and changed and then the grown-ups had a shower each, put on the smellies and out of the front door to go and meet Gonzalo and Pili in the precinct.
The reaction people have to the sun is a very big clue as to where they are from: indeed it was our first topic of conversation after the introductory smalltalk was over and done with. We had met our friends inside the bar, where the air conditioning was on, the temperature was liveable at least and the smoke and the conversation swirled around us in clouds of misheard sentences and nicotine. Sonia and I were quick to suggest that we sat outside, much to the horror of our hosts. Northerners always seem desperate to take advantage of any speck of sunlight before it runs away and starts to get cold again, whereas those who have to live with intense heat as a part of their lifestyle seem to shy away from it until dusk where a low buzzing cool sets in. Really and truly we should have listened to the locals, as when we walked back outside we were hit by a brick wall of heat, the sort of heat that you can taste as you breathe in quickly in reaction to the sudden change. The south of Spain always smells hot to me, and it really makes me miss the rain, that fresh tangy smell after it rains which you only ever get in colder countries. It has been a real effort for me to get used tot he fact that when it rains in Castilla it doesn’t get any cooler, it just makes the air more humid and sticky. I digress.
We moved outside and were happily chatting when I suddenly felt cold vapour escaping from a tube over my head and a sort of jolt of cold that made me look sharply upwards. The bar, in keeping with the other bars cafés and restaurants along the road had a sort of piping that surrounded the terrace that shout out cold water vapour at 30 second intervals. It made Raquel jump a lot and felt very nice on such a hot day, and thus an idea was born. After my second pint I felt like the idea was the best one that I had ever had, and I must try it out at all cost, so the plan was set in motion. Off I shot after Raquel who was playing around at running up to the table, shouting “Boo!” and then disappearing behind a privet hedge just next to where we were sitting. Once I had caught her and had her wriggling round with tickles and laughter I lifted her up and put her on my shoulders in the ‘fireman’s lift’ position and shuffled off in my sandals to put her head under the pipe so that she would get a shot of water down her neck. As I approached the pipe at what was now less of a zombie pace and more of an excited octogenarian plod I felt two very sharp cracks and the most pain I have ever been in shooting through my toes. Somehow I managed to put Raquel properly down on the floor before looking down to see what the carnage looked like on my poor tootsies. My right big toe had its nail was at right angles to my foot, and the left one was at forty five degrees more or less and bleeding profusely. Thankfully a very kind lady put a seat under me so that I could sit down, and I went white and shaky as everything went swirly round me. I could hear Sonia shouting, but was absolutely transfixed by my nails.
My feet looked like something out of a horror film, there was a lot of blood and the nail-beds were going black. I couldn’t tear my eyes away from what had been a rather badly looked after set of toenails and were now a couple of weird looking cocktail sticks poking out of the ends of my feet. I couldn’t really feel any pain, but felt dizzy and a little bit sick. Fortunately the people from the local clinic were quick to arrive and wheel me off in a wheelchair whilst I wibbled on in increasingly bad Spanish. The pain started to kick in and I have to say that I have never felt anything like it and hope not to have to ever again. It must be said at this point that both Gonzalo and the medical staff at the clinic were absolutely wonderful. The paramedic was chatting to me the whole way and was reassuring me with small talk about the weather, where I was from and so on, Gonzalo was making jokes and talking about the latest music he was listening to and Sonia, Pili and the children followed on as quickly as they could. Once settled into the Accident and Emergency bed I heard the words I had been expecting but really hadn’t wanted to hear. ” Esto te va a doler un huevo” which roughly translates as “This is going to hurt like a bastard”. I must say at this point that Gonzalo said to me in very good English not to worry and that he was there for me, at which point the paramedic in a practically perfect RP said “Well if you’d like to swear in English then go ahead, but please write it down for me afterwards.”. So I gripped Gonzalo’s hands very tightly and swore profusely as one of my toenails was taken out undrugged. I felt everything, the slow tearing as it all came out and a sort of ‘plop’ as it fully came out. The pain was incredible, like nothing I have ever felt before, and I must say that I hope never to have to feel again. I always used to think that the term ’screaming’ for pain was a bit overused, but it really is how it felt. I really wouldn’t wish it on anyone, as it is very uncomfortable indeed.
The next toe was the worse of the two experiences. The paramedic told me that he had to take out everything including the root of the nail. This was going to mean morphine and having to inject me in my recently revealed nail-bed. The first thing he gave me was a syringe full of a pain killer that made me a bit dizzy, and then I was given the first injection, right into the very centre of my toe. It centred all the pain into one place and made me sit bolt upright and grip hold of Gonzalo’s hand as hard as I could. There were then four further injections around the base of the toe and the nail bed. At this point I must say that I hope never to have to take morphine again, but that I can fully understand the people that are addicted to it. I could feel the pain still, but I didn’t care a jot: not a sausage. They could have suggested running a marathon and I could have done it. I was the funniest, greatest person alive and if they had asked me to write in Serbo-Corat I would have only needed half an hour’s lesson and I could have rewritten “War and Peace”. Having said that, I could feel everything that was being done to me, including the slow tearing feeling as what was left of my nail was pulled out with the root close to follow.
The paramedic had the wit to suggest that it was a shame it had only been my big toenails as my athlete’s foot could have been sorted out in one by removing all of my nails: which even managed to register to my more than fuzzy brain as sarcasm, though it made me bray like a donkey I was laughing so hard. During this whole process I had been swearing like a trooper, and after the bandaging was over I was asked to write down some of the things I had said. So should any of you be near the poligono in Toldeo, then please don’t be too surprised if you hear some quite colourful English swearing coming from the accident and emergency.